Noor Jahan: Queen of the Mughals
Designer - Shyamal Bhumika
The Story
The inspiration of this collection is the one and only Noor Jahan (1577-1645) from the Mughal Empire. She is an actual historical figure described as the as the most powerful queen of the empire. Even though she was the wife of the Emperor Jahangir, she truly was the leader of that time period. I remembered her story from my childhood, and I was instantly motivated to recreate it with my designs. The story of Noor Jahan is long and complicated, so it was challenging for me to come up with only five looks. Nevertheless, I managed to choose five pivotal moments from her history to work with.
I’ll begin her story around the time she was a young child before her named had been changed to Noor Jahan. At this point in her life her name is Meher, and she has been introduced to the royal family. Emperor Akbar welcomes her to the palace, introduces her to his son, Prince Salim, and treats her as if she was his own daughter. Meher and Salim spend much time together learning archery, horseback riding, and other important skills.
This first look is a two-piece outfit, which is my take on skillfulness and prestige. Meher spends her childhood learning the arts, such as literature, music, and poetry. In addition, she becomes an adept archer and horseback rider. I can picture Meher wearing an outfit like this to represent her persistence and poise. The additional flair in her garments shows her keen eye for fashion since she was an talent embroiderer as well.
The story continues with Meher and Salim. The two fall in love; however, Emperor Akbar disapproves of the relationship because Meher is not of royal blood, so Salim would have to abdicate his position if he chose to be with her. The emperor makes Meher promise never to be with Salim, and he also sends Salim away to war. Soon after, Meher is married off to a man named Sher Afghan, who falls immediately in love with her at first sight.
This look is her bridal outfit. At the age of thirty, Meher marries Sher Afghan. Since she is at the prime of her adult life, I wanted to create a garment that would capture her youthful radiance. The beige skirt with the red floral embroidery patterns adds the essence of her personality. She is lightly accessorized for this wedding because she is not of noble birth, but she still holds a level of status because of her acquaintanceship with the Emperor and his family.
Now the story takes a turn when Meher’s husband is killed during a battle that took place in the year 1607. Meher is a widowed single mother who returns to her family at the empire which is in present-day Lahore, Pakistan. She is reunited with the prince now known as Jahangir after many, many years, and she finds that his love for her has not died. He still longs to be with her. This revelation puts Meher at a difficult crossroads. While she longs to be with Salim, she knows that she cannot break her promise to Emperor Akbar.
I wanted this next look to be relatively demure with a hint of elegance. The faded pastel color emphasizes the lack of brightness in Meher’s life. The intricately embroidered skirt showcases the signature floral pattern that represents Meher’s past youthfulness. Also, the scarf is thoughtfully draped over the model to symbolize the restraint she places over her love for Jahangir.
This next look is another bridal look for Meher. Eventually she realizes that Jahangir’s unrequited love has caused his ruin. As the lovesick and depressed emperor becomes unable to rule without her by his side, she finally decides to marry him.
This bridal look is much more modest than the first one, yet there is still a boldness in the contrast of the green and red colors. Once again the skirt is embroidered with the reoccurring floral pattern, and this time the pattern is in gold. The model is accessorized with a statement necklace only fit for a queen. At this point in the story is when Meher is renamed by Jahangir as Noor Jahan, the light of the world.
The final look brings the collection back full circle. In the beginning, Meher is a young woman learning the ways of the world. Now she has matured. Time has changed her, and her experiences have reshaped her knowledge and personality. In addition, she is in a status of power as the queen of the Mughal Empire. This look is fully decked out in gold details, all the way from the pants to the sleeves of the bodice. As a woman in power, Noor Jahan needs to command respect with the way she walks, talks, and dresses. This look is the perfect accessory to her intelligence to achieve that respect.
Her skills as a leader help her rule alongside the Emperor as he manages armies, politics, and an empire. I remember reading a storybook about her in which she has a status equal to the Emperor; however, according to historical texts, Noor Jahan had a role superior to Jahangir. Although the people knew him as the Emperor, it was in fact Noor Jahan who led the extraordinary Mughals as the greatest queen of that era.